Photo du Jour - Café


Look at all that crystal clean air in the café.
Not everyone is as happy about this as I am.

The Canal du Midi










The 150 mile long Canal du Midi ambles its way across the south of France, linking the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean.
Tour boats cruise along at an easygoing 8 knots an hour. Cyclists and trekkers enjoy its scenic tollpaths at a leisurely pace.

It's a place to slow down, take some time out. Have a chilled glass of rosé, a picnic and listen to the birds singing. Nothing moves fast here.

Photo du Jour


Shutters on an wine producer's old barn. These remind me of Italy.

Photo du Jour - Parisian Music


My sister and I were enchanted by this very talented group of classical string musicians that we stumbled across on our way to the gardens at the Palais-Royal in Paris.

Photo du Jour


Speck, basking in the sun last Sunday.
I love how it looks like he's on a tropical island or something!

Moving to France Tutorial - Part Four


In Part Four of the Tutorial I would like to introduce you to the Residency Card, the Carte de Séjour.

The Carte de Séjour rules have changed since we arrived in France seven years ago. If you're staying in France less than one year, i.e., the length of a Long Stay Visa, as long as that visa is valid, you're fine. Once the clock strikes midnight on the 365th day however, you will need a Carte de Séjour in hand.

If you have one of the following visas and want to reside in France for only 12 months, then you will not need to apply for a Carte de Séjour. Lucky you!
  • long stay non-working visa (visiteur)
  • long stay visa to work in France (assistants, lecturers, full time and temporary workers)
  • long stay visa to study in France (students, au pairs, interns)
  • long stay visa for spouses of French nationals
However, that doesn't mean that you are exempt from a little meet and greet with a French fonctionnaire. You are still required to register with the Immigration Office.
Upon your arrival in France you will need to send a registered letter with return receipt (une lettre recommandé avec demande d'avis de réception) to your local offices of the OFII: the Office Français de l'Immigration et de l'Intégration.
The letter will need to include the following:
  • the application form, stamped by the French Consulate when they granted your visa
  • your visa number
  • your date of entry in France or the Schengen country
  • your address in France
  • copies of the ID pages in your passport and the immigration stamp received when you landed
You will then be requested to appear for an interview and medical exam with the following:
  • your passport
  • proof of accommodation in France
  • one ID picture
  • payment for the processing fees - 55€ for students, 70€ for workers, 300€ for visitors
When your dossier is complete, a registration stamp will be added to your passport.

If your plans change and you need to stay longer than one year, you need to apply with your local Préfecture, Sous-Préfecture or Préfecture de Police (if residing in Paris) at least two months before your visa expires.

If your plan is to stay for more than a year, then you will need a Carte de Séjour. You should apply in person within two months of your arrival in France at the Service des Étrangers section of your local Préfecture, Sous-Préfecture, or the Préfecture de Police (if residing in Paris).

You will need the following, in their original form, plus two photocopies of each, just to be safe. Also, any certificates (such as marriage and birth) not in French will need to be translated by an official, court-certified translator (names of translators are available from Préfectures, Consulates and police stations). When we had ours translated it was 40€ a page, so make sure that your bank balance is healthy!
  • a valid passport
  • a valid long stay visa (which is in your passport)
  • birth certificate with parents names listed (sometimes it must be issued within the previous 3 months)
  • marriage certificate
  • birth certificates of dependent children if applicable
  • proof of permanent address in France (EDF bill or the house deed of sale (acte de vente) for a house bought in France or a signed lease agreement for the French address)
  • recent medical certificate issued by the OFII- they will send you a notice of where and when your medical exam is to take place and the certificate will be added to your dossier
  • three recent ID photographs
A few additional items to have ready:
  • details of your parents places of birth and your mother's maiden name
  • two stamped, self-addressed envelopes are sometimes, but not always, asked for
There will be extra requirements for different types of Cartes de Séjour and your local government office will give you a list of any additional documents you must provide. Just don't be surprised if, when you arrive with everything they have asked for, all bundled in a nice little folder, they demand yet another random piece of paper. C'est normal.

There are several different types of Carte de Séjour - assistant/lecteur-visiteur, étudiant, travailleur temporaire, vie privée et familiale, visiteur, salarié, compétences et talents - and the fee for the application depends on what type you are applying for.

Once an application has been made, you will be given a temporary, renewable receipt, a récépissé. This is valid for three months and allows you to stay in France while your application is being processed.
We were never issued a récépissé for some reason. We applied for our Cartes and waited. And waited. They finally arrived several months later and every year we went through the frustrating process all over again.

One of the important things to remember is that, even though there is a basic list of documents that France requires, each Mairie, Préfecture, etc., seems to have its own rules and way of doing things.
So you learn to be flexible, to cajole the powers-that-be with some homemade brownies, to enjoy another glass of wine and another morsel of French cheese. While you learn the art of patience. Infinite patience.

Stay tuned for Part Five of the Tutorial in a couple of weeks. We've got guests arriving and I'm off to Paris for six days, so the Tutorial is going to have to wait!

If you live in France and have a Carte de Séjour story to share, bad or good (do good CdS stories even exist?) please feel free to share them in the comments.


*Please note that the information given here, while believed to be as accurate as possible at the time of writing, is general information only, and no liability can be accepted. Before acting on the information, please ensure that you take expert advice from the relevant authorities.

Photo du Jour - Village Fête


Rosé anyone?

Last night's annual summer fête in a neighboring village.

Remembering ... plus two awards and an apology.

Remembering ... On November 2, All Souls' Day, we remember loved ones who have left us. Traditionally in France people bring flowers to the graves and chrysanthemums are found in all the flower shops. I have preferred this delicate flower from my deck ... In spite of many joys, we had a particularly difficult year, so allow me to remember here family members and friends who are no longer with us.
Family on my husband's side, in France: Andree, Maurice, Michel.
Dear friends: Francis in Thailand, Ponchita, Walter in Montevideo, Maria in Buenos Aires.
Farewell...



But I do not want to finish this post on a sad note. So I thank Nat, of
Girls are made of sugar and spice, for her Kreativ' Blogger Award. Visit her blog now, you will see the pictures of her two pink fairies!

What would you find worth reading about myself? Mmmm ... let's try to make it tasty!

1. My first and trademark dish when I was young was a braised roast beef in a creamy sauce.

2. The first time I went to the local market in Nairobi I was knocked off by the strong smell of cilantro, sitting in the sun for hours the smell of cilantro mixed with the smells of rotten fruit and vegetable was pungent. I couldn't stand it! Then I tamed my scent and now I love it!

3. I first tasted curry in Kenya, over at friends' whose family had come from Punjab; it blew my mouth! I also learned to tame my mouth!

4. The first time I tasted green tea, it was near Shanghai, at Long Jing, or Dragon's Well, a very famous Chinese brand. Felt like grass ... but now I have some 5 different green tea types in my pantry, Chinese, Japanese, and Korean!

5. My first snails (and last ever) were experienced at a restaurant in Rochester, NY! I have been offered many many times and have politely declined ...

6. I tried oysters for the first time in France - my French friends were expecting me to be disgusted, but they didn't know I used to eat raw mussels in Punta del Este when I was little!

7. While in Colombia, in a visit to Bucaramanga, I tasted the local specialty: grilled ants ... mmm, no comments!

After my "first-time confessions", I will nominate seven bloggers.
Among the many blogs I enjoy reading, I will try to name seven I have not given an award to in the past (I have made a careful list and I have already given awards to roughly 25 bloggers out of the fifty something blogs I visit regularly!).

1. Blogging in English from Canada: My Folie a Deux with Jen Laceda's remarks in fashion, travel, lifestyle, and more!

2. Blogging from Johor, Malaysia, My Little Space loves baking, cooking, and sometimes ... jungle tracking!

3. Tina in Florida tells us about Life in the slow lane at Squirrel Head Manor

4. Do I need to introduce Sam Hoffner and her delightful My Carolina Kitchen - a blog that celebrates its first year.

5. Michelle Hobart greets us with a G'day from Tasmania (Australia), tells us about her daily life in Alpaca, Chook, Garden, Travel and Michelle's Musing

6. SJ Gourmet delights us with her beautiful pictures of food because this Chef loves the documentation of food as much as the actual food preparation.

7. Fifi Flowers is all over my Parisian flat, her paintings fly over land and ocean from LAX to land on my walls!

So this is what you have to do:
1) Thank the person who has given you the award (that's me!).
2) Copy the logo and place it on your blog.
3) Link to the person who has nominated you for the award.
4) Name 7 things about yourself that people might find interesting.
5) Nominate 7 Kreativ Bloggers.

Last but not least, a very special thanks and an apology to Patti Friday who runs the beautiful Liberty Post for this joyful award that I acknowledge only today! ENJOY!

OUCH!

Well, I am now painfully aware of what stinging nettles look like...
I brushed up against some while weeding the garden.

Damn, it stings!

Photo du Jour


The neighbor's garden gate.

Photo du Jour - Winter Savory


La sarriette, growing in our garden.

Winter savory is an aromatic perennial herb with a peppery, robust flavor. Some prefer its bold flavor to that of its softer flavored cousin, summer savory.
Add to creamy white beans or simmering lentils (it has properties that prevent flatulence), mix with roasted root vegetables or pair with braised pork and roasted chicken.

In Provence there is an amazing tasting sarriette infused goat's cheese called Chèvre à la Sarriette de Provence.

Photo du Jour


Too beautiful for words.

Decadence and Hedonism

Well, the year is winding down and coming to a close. You know what that means...
Only a couple more days of hedonism and decadence before those awful, guilt ridden New Year's resolutions (that are usually forgotten and discarded by the middle of February) are made.
I mean really, if you want to change something about yourself or your life, why not just DO IT? Why do you have to wait for January 1?
Just a thought.

So here's to not making resolutions!
Santé!

La Fête du Fromage - le Pécalou


This has to be one of the most memorable and intriguing goat's cheeses I've ever tasted.  It wasn't soft or pillowy or chalky or spicy or creamy.  There were no grassy or herb flavors, nor did its aroma conjure up images of a barnyard.

Le Pécalou is just a baby in terms of cheese - only 11 days of affinage -  yet is very mature and refined tasting.  Its texture is slightly dry and it crumbles a bit when you cut into it, but not as crumbly as a cheese like Templais Sec.
The flavor is very rich and nutty, with a fair amount of salt, a bit of a tang and a mild goatiness.  It all balances out perfectly.

Finding a wine pairing was a bit difficult.  It didn't work with the local Minervois red, nor did I like it with the only cold white we had in the fridge, a Vin de Pays d'Oc produced in a neighboring village.  On a whim, I tried it with some rosé and was pleasantly surprised at what a great match it was.
Eh voilà, le Pécalou is the perfect cheese for summer!

This divine little fromage de chèvre is produced here in the Languedoc-Roussillon by Les Chevriers de l'Hérault, up near the town of Lodève


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Photo du Jour - Vélib


Vélib is a fabulous idea. It cuts down on traffic, the bikes are easily accessible and people were using them everywhere I looked.

I wanted to pay my €1 and hop on one and feel the wind on my face while I pedaled around Paris...but I just couldn't imagine riding a bicycle safely alongside the, how shall I put this...
rather erratic
Parisian drivers.

Maybe next time.
Or maybe I'll just stick to walking.

Sunday Reading

Paris on my mind: Inspiring Parisian shopping and decorating ideas. Mouthwatering Paris restaurant reviews. A new book about the joys (and pitfalls) of living in Paris.

Provence also on my mind, especially after browsing through this enticing site.

Looking for holiday rentals in France to die for? Check out these chic apartments in Paris and gorgeous houses scattered all over the country.
This is the apartment my sister and I are staying in at the end of the month. Looks fabulous, non?



All of the recent showers have brought out the beautiful May flowers.

I'm not the only one telling her Becoming a French Citizen tales. Heather in Paris is sharing her story too.

A treasured birthday gift designed by my Languedoc Lasses and fashioned by a very talented jeweler and a great friend.

Photo du Jour - Gelato


Very much of an Italian feel here in Zagreb.
Gelato is everywhere and it's delicious! Also, the espresso is divine.

Photo du Jour - Crème Brûlée


Pistachio Crème Brûlée. I could hardly wait to crack through the crunchy, caramelized sugar topping.

The Many Faces of the Krewe of Barkus

The Mystic Krewe of Barkus parade rolled through the French Quarter yesterday afternoon.



The parade was attended by dog lovers of all ages...



...and some religions...



...dogs of all sizes...



...some wearing costumes...



...and some not...




...some very tired...



...and even a pirate cat!

La Fête du Fromage - La Brique du Forez

The Auvergne is home to many of France's well known and loved cheeses; sublime Cantal, gorgeous Gaperon and two beautiful bleus, Fourme d'Ambert and Bleu d'Auvergne.

In the extreme eastern edge of the Auvergne lies the le pays du Livradois-Forez, home to this week's cheese, La Brique du Forez (also called Chevreton du Livradois).


La Brique du Forez is soft - in texture, aroma and flavor. Nothing about it is over the top.
This is a humble, well rounded cheese that has beautiful butter and hazelnut flavors, and I also detected gentle hints of goatiness. Its earthy aroma has a tiny bit of barnyard to it, but not aggressive at all.

Made from 100% unpasteurized goat's milk during the spring and autumn and a blend of cow and goat's milk the rest of the year, this cheese is produced both on small farms and by artisan cheese makers.
One website did state that la Brique has become industrially produced, however the Fromagerie where I bought it said that this one was lait cru and fermier.

If you find yourself in the Auvergne or see this cheese for sale at a Fromagerie in France, don't hesitate to try it. It is a wonderful cheese!

Wine recommendation: a fruity Beaujolais or a floral Viognier.



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My Next Birthday And A Fun-Filled Afternoon

Telling you this little story means I'm revealing my age, something I'm told a proper French woman should never do.
What the hell, I'm not French yet...

My 40th birthday is coming up this February. (feeling myself break out in a cold sweat - I know it shouldn't bother me, but it does - more about my emotions surrounding my upcoming birthday later)



Where was I? Oh yes.
Turning 40 for a woman usually means that exciting event we all look forward to - The Mammogram.



Wednesday afternoon I had the pleasure of spending two hours in a clinic, waiting to meet Sophie. And no, that's not the name of the doctor.
This lovely machine pictured above is Sophie. How do I know that it's name is Sophie, you might ask? Because "her" name is written in green across the top of the machine. Seriously. Just enlarge the photo and you'll see.

So I have to ask...
Why give it a female name? Is that supposed to make me feel better while "she" is smashing my boobs between "her" two compressor plates?

Just wondering...



A side note: It was painless and absolutely necessary. Ladies, don't put off having your mammograms!

June


The month of June is pretty near perfect, if you ask me. 

Cherries and apricots and melons arrive at the markets, the mind-numbing summer swelter has yet to hit its stride and on the 21st all of France stops to listen at the Fête de la Musique


Lavender is starting to bloom and the aroma is divine!



Mastering Cheese by Max McCalman finally landed on my doorstep and I'm slowly savoring every word.



The first crop of figs are ripe for the picking.



Blue, blue skies above.



Poppies - they're fading fast, but still brightening up the fields.



Mild-mannered spring garlic is in season.



Al fresco dining has officially begun.

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La Fête du Fromage - If You Can't Stand The Smell....

...you better stay away from our kitchen!

My trip to Marseille last week yielded a Corsican cheese to die for.
In a small fromagerie, le Normandy, I bought a piece of this pasteurized sheep's milk cheese called U Bel Fiuritu. When the fromager handed me the cheese I put my nose near the the little waxed paper package to take in its aroma, but the shop was so odoriferous, I didn't pick up anything unusual.
It wasn't until later, on the train home, that I noticed an aroma wafting up from my bag...this was one smelly cheese!



It had a washed rind that was quite sticky, yet edible, a soft texture and flavors that ranged from creamy to spicy. We both loved it's heady flavor that prickled on our tongues as it developed.
A glass of Minervois red paired nicely with this cheese.

I highly recommend U Bel Fiuritu and since it is a pasteurized cheese, it is hopefully readily available outside of France.

A Morning in the South of France

The chill in the air and the smell of wood burning in fireplaces are what first hit me when I step outside to make a quick trip to the épicerie.
Our village lost its boulangerie several years ago, but the owner of the épicerie, Marie Thérèse, has bread delivered every morning. Baguettes, gros pain (a fatter, larger baguette) and croissants. Not the best choice, but perfect when I don't want to get in the car and drive five miles to the nearest bakery. She opens at 9 am and if you're not there by 10, the croissants are all gone.
Needless to say, we don't eat many croissants.


The gros pain has a soft, puffy interior which is much friendlier to the roof of your mouth than the baguettes, which have an ultra crispy, crunchy crust and a far too airy crumb for our taste.
The best thing to do is to be organized, plan ahead and reserve our bread and croissants so they'll be waiting for us when we finally meander down there to pick them up. We just don't plan from day to day if we'll be making the trip into town or not, other than Tuesday which is Market Day. Another good reason to bake my own bread!

Ideally, most of my writing is done in the morning, after a strong cup of coffee and either some plain yogurt drizzled with our local beekeeper's miel de garrigue or a croissant, but as I already said, we don't eat a lot of those!
Around 11 a.m. the dogs get restless and want a walk - I think they keep time by the church bells that chime every hour. If it's raining like it has been the last couple of days, I fake them out by putting on their leashes and opening the door. They put one paw on the damp ground and quickly draw it back, dismayed at the thought of wet paws. It cracks me up. They're such little prima donnas!

Then before I know it, it's time to get some lunch together. Lunch is usually our largest meal of the day and I love looking at recipes in the morning, trying new French dishes, as well as keeping our Indian, Thai, Italian, Chinese and Mexican cravings satisfied.

Life is pretty tranquil in our little French village. But like anywhere, time passes far too quickly!