A taste of France: visiting a local market.

Visiting France? You OUGHT to visit a local market!
When I visited Normandy last summer, I was very pleased to see at the museum of the Tapestry of Bayeux, circa 1066, a reconstitution of a market scene of that time. It was lively and colorful!
Note that if you rare curious and read my post about Bayeux , you will see a delightful top picture of the town at sunrise that Fifi Flowers later painted - and I could not resit buying it once I saw it. It is being framed by Marie K Verbois and I will show you the result once it is done!

French markets are older than that! In the 5C Paris, called then Lutece, had an open market in the Ile de la Cite, the island where Notre Dame is. Later in the 16 C, Paris has already four bread markets and one animal market. Today there are 78 food markets markets in Paris, some are in the open air, or as they were called in the old times, market in the wind (marche au vent), and some are covered. The open air markets are set at around 8 am and pack back between Noon and 1 pm, a bit later on weekends. Sellers are proud of their products, like this "charcutiere" cutting thin slices of her home made ham.
They take place on regular days. Tuesday and Friday are the days for my Molitor Market and Wdnesdays and Saturdays for the Auteuil market, both very very near my home.


Food markets in France sell the traditional market stape, vegetables and fruit, but also fish, charcuterie, poultry, or meats:
There over 36000 markets of all sorts in France, some are food markets, like this one in Marmande, in the Southwest: or this brocante near Bordeaux where old linen is sold: or this animal market in the Sarthe, region west of Paris (Capital Le Mans, where the 24 hours of racing are held every year) When you visit France, you will find that is right for you.

La Fête du Fromage - Crémeux du Puy

Paris, in my humble opinion, is one of the most sublime cities in the world.
And the icing on the already delicious gâteau that is Paris is the sheer number of Fromageries that seem to appear around every corner.

My sister and I wandered into Fromagerie 31 after a delicious, al fresco lunch at da Rosa's and a cone of amazing Bacio gelato from Grom. Talk about the holy trinity of food shops! Living near these three would be very dangerous for my waistline.

The first cheese that caught my eye was a creamy, ash covered wedge of Crémeux du Puy.


We brought it back to our apartment that evening, created a tempting cheese plate with it and the three others we had chosen, opened up a bottle of white Burgundy and settled in for a grand tasting.

Sadly, this was our least favorite.
I think it was just too young. The flavor was sharp, and even though there were mild hints of soft, creamy butter, the astringent flavor overpowered them. Also, this cheese is dotted with blue veins that I had hoped would offer some nice, salty or mushroomy pockets of flavor. Nope. Nada.

Even though we found it very disappointing, I would try it again as I think it deserves a second chance. A more mature wedge would probably taste better.
Crémeux du Puy is an unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from Le Puy-en-Velay, in the Haute-Loire.

A light Beaujolais or Chardonnay would be my wine pairing recommendation.



La Fromagerie 31
64, rue de Seine
75006 PARIS

I'm off to Los Angeles!

I'm in Los Angeles! Back to the beautiful Pacific Ocean, to the Santa Monica Farmer's market, to Ground Works for my morning coffee, to new discoveries, and to my dear Aurea - and Benjy.

The flight out of Paris was on time in Amsterdam, but the second leg, Amsetrdam - LAX was very very long.
With the Icelander volcano erupting and creating a huge ash cloud on "my" way to LAX, above the North Atlantic, we had to wait for over two hours, sitting in the 747, for a new route to be given to the KLM pilot.
The route above France and South of Iceland was longer, so we had to get more fioul - which translated in more time waiting in the plane!!!
Then we had to queue for departure as the airport was congested ...
Finally, at around 1 pm instead of 10:40 am, we took off.

Photo du Jour


Every year it creeps further across this empty house.

NO pretexts accepted!






During my stay in San Francisco I have toured a few places in search of ingredients for my private classes and everyday suppers, and I can tell you I am stunned to see the good quality and variety of produce I have found. Whole Foods, and the market on College Ave (Berkley) were among my quality-food stops.

No more pretexts accepted, START COOKING!

Oh, and a special note about the Bresaola from ... Uruguay (pictured above). I couldn't resist and I highly recommend it. For our supper, I arranged an Italian charcuterie plate with bresaola, Parma prosciutto, copa, and more, had raviolis with a home made pesto (parmigiano, pecorino, fresh basil leaves, pine nuts, olive oil), and a salad.

Photo du Jour - Un Petit Café


Taken after lunch.

If only un petit café in France were as good as a shot of espresso in Italy.