Paris Resto and Culinary: June 2010

La Fête du Fromage - Tomme Périgourdine and Mimolette

Textures and colors on both ends of the spectrum this week with an unctuous, milky white Tomme Périgourdine and a dense, pumpkin orange Mimolette.

The Tomme Périgourdine was a wonderful, luscious, creamy goat cheese . It is produced in the stunning Dordogne département by the Ferme du Chèvre Périgourdin whose farm consists of 120 snowy white Saanen goats.

As you can see by the photos, this baby was ripe!
About thirty minutes after I unwrapped it, the outer layer came sliding off into a puddle of oozing fabulousness. It had a very mild aroma and was slightly salty with hints of hazelnut and mushroom. The "goatiness" was not very pronounced, making this an excellent choice for those who are wary of goat cheese. This Tomme was a truly wonderful! It could easily become one of my favorites.
We enjoyed it with a baguette and some red Minervois wine, from just down the street.

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This outlandishly colored cheese is Mimolette also called Boule de Lille, a pasteurized cow's milk cheese. The bright tangerine color comes from the annatto seed (anchiote seed), a mild spice which is also used to color the exterior of Langres and Boulette d'Avesnes.
It resembles a Dutch cheese and some say it originated in Holland, but the production of Mimolette is commonly believed to have begun in France in the 17th century when the French minister, Colbert, forbade the import of foreign goods, including cheese. The northerners around Lille began making their own cheese, based on Edam.
This was an aged Mimolette, about 18 months, producing a very brittle, waxy texture. The flavor was very mellow and nutty, similar to a mild Cheddar. It was pretty bland, kind of like the cheese I grew up eating in America. (Other than the Provolone that my grandfather aged in his basement. We called it stinky cheese.) We both decided it would be a good addition to Macaroni and Cheese!

One of the coolest things about Mimolette is the mite eaten exterior. Yes, mites. As in the insect. Cheese mites are allowed to nibble the crust to aerate it and help in maturation.
I would avoid eating the rind.

A glass of Riesling, Pinot Gris or a Châteauneuf-du-Pape would nicely compliment Mimolette.

the mite eaten rind

A Cassoulet Question

I was looking at some stats from my account this morning and noticed that someone stumbled across my Flickr page while searching for a recipe for Vegetarian Cassoulet.

Vegetarian Cassoulet?

Ok, so I have to ask the question: how can such a thing exist?

Isn't the very essence, the very soul of Cassoulet the beans and the meat, be it duck, goose, pork or lamb, cooked slowly together in a cassole until thick, rich and bubbly?
Beans can also be cooked slowly, with vegetables, until thick, rich and bubbly (a dish I love, by the way). That is called Bean Stew. Not Cassoulet. And not vegetarian Cassoulet.

Yes, you can argue that it is a question of semantics. But I believe that the tradition of dishes like Cassoulet should be respected.

No Meat = No Cassoulet

I'm just saying.

confit de canard, pancetta, sausages, couenne (pork rind) for the Cassoulet

confit de canard

two variations - one to cook over the fire and one to go into the oven

links:
The Cassoulet recipe from Camp Cassoulet at Kate Hill's home in Gascony.
A Toulouse Style Cassoulet recipe from Paula Wolfert.

Photo du Jour

My last morning dog sitting was a gorgeous one.

Now if I can just keep up the habit of walking every morning....

Photo du Jour - le 1er août

The buzzing of the cigales is slowly quieting. The heat off the streets is shimmering. Hordes of Dutch, British and Belgian cars slowly drive around, looking lost. Young women walk around the village wearing teeny bikini tops and a sarongs, thinking there's a beach nearby, perhaps? People at the restaurant audaciously try to order 1 child's menu to share between their 3 pre-teens.

August is here.
Thankfully there are plenty of tranquil, out of the way places like this one to escape to.

La Garrigue - A Beautiful Morning

La Garrigue is a scrubland found on limestone soils around the Mediterranean basin, generally near the sea, typically consisting of evergreen shrubs such as lavender, rosemary, wild thyme, sage and myrtle, and trees such as juniper and stunted holm oaks.

This morning I grabbed by camera and took a walk up into the aromatic and gorgeous garrigue.

varieties of pine

wild thyme in bloom

a variety of orchid

purple seems to be a popular color

stone walls are built

and stone walls fall

a view of the village from up in la garrigue

If you understand French, check out this site, La Garrigue Gourmande.
In English - History of the Garrigue.

La Fête du Fromage - Tome Basque

When I purchased this wedge of Tome Basque from my favorite cheese guy at the Olonzac market, I expected a pleasant, rustic tasting mountain cheese. What I didn't expect was to be completely blown away by a cheese with such a refined, sophisticated character.

I just love surprises, don't you?

During our tasting, the flavor of Tome Basque reminded us both of some other cheese, though we couldn't quite put our finger on it. After a bit more nibbling, another sip of wine, a bit more bread and another taste of the cheese, we agreed that the flavor resembled an English (shhhh...don't tell the locals) farmhouse Cheddar, but with a slightly different texture.

The full, well developed flavors are bracingly sharp and tangy with buttery overtones. We also noticed delicious toasted hazelnuts and a bit of salt. The texture is firm and delightfully melt-in-your-mouth smooth, with a very rich mouthfeel.

Tome Basque, as the name implies, is produced the pays Basque in southwestern France. Some well known French ewe's milk cheeses come from this region; Ossau-Iraty, Bleu de Basques and Etorki immediately come to mind. Cow's milk cheeses seem to be less popular, but after tasting this little gem I have to wonder why?

This cheese is perfect when served with some crusty bread and a glass of local Minervois red. I could happily tuck into a piece of Tome Basque every day.

Photo du Jour - Les Pigeons

Elegant, snow white, fantail pigeons perched on the ledge outside their nesting holes.

Photo du Jour - La Bicyclette

Parked out in front of our little Épicerie.

Pressure cooker and what you can do with it.

I arrived in Bogota in 1974 with a contract to work for a year. The year became almost three when I met Jean-Louis, who became my husband.
We lived on a 23rd floor flat in a modern building with a striking view in the Northern neighborhood of Bogota, on Carrera Septima - which added a little bit of height to the impressive 8,661.4 FT (2640 m) of the city.

You may know that at sea level, water boils at 212 F (100 C), but when altitude increases, the temperature at which water boils lowers. So in Bogota, water boils at 195 F (90 C). This means food takes (much) longer to boil.

Look at these artichokes in the Saumur market where I was last week!

Do you like artichokes? We love them and I challenge you to cook artichokes at 8,600 FT! My newly-wed-cook experience was a disaster!! At midnight, artichokes were not cooked yet.

That's how the pressure cooker became part of my kitchen. The following day, we bought one, and ate artichokes "for ever thereafter"!

When we arrived in France, we bought a SEB stainless steel, triple bottom, pressure cooker, actually it is the one you see in the picture, and it is ... 32 years old.

Today, I cooked artichokes for lunch; we had them as an appetizer, with hazelnut oil, sea salt, and paprika.
I cooked them for 23 minutes in the pressure cooker (equals 1 hour in a pan). I let them cool, removed them and cleaned every leave leaving the soft part in a bowl, until you reach the heart. Then you clean the heart, season it, and place in on a plate. Mix in the bowl the soft part of the artichokes, and season with hazelnut oil, salt and paprika. Make a little mound with this on top of the heart. Serve cold or a little bit warm.

La Fête du Fromage - Margalet

A strange thing happened at my favorite Fromagerie in Béziers last week...
Either the woman behind the counter hadn't properly educated herself about her products or I was blatantly lied to.

This Camembert-like sheep's milk cheese, nestled in a little wooden box, caught my eye. The name printed on the box was Margalet. Never heard of it.
I posed a couple of basic questions; what kind of milk is it made from? pasteurized or unpasteurized? fermier, artisanal or industriel?

I was told that it is unpasteurized, fermier brebis. Wonderful, I thought, and bought a piece.

Well, it isn't.
Not unpasteurized. Not fermier.
Rather, industriel, pasteurized cheese that is a recent creation from Papillon, the producers of Roquefort in the Aveyron.
However it is brebis, so she got that right. Thankfully.

I have to say that I felt rather misled.
Luckily the cheese's gorgeous flavor made up for the Fromagère's mistake/deception.

Margalet has a very earthy aroma and a smooth, chewy and supple texture. The thin, bloomy rind is completely edible and underneath is a cheese with a deep mushroom flavor and a soft, lingering aftertaste. It was a real pleasure!

Enjoy a glass of Sancerre or a Costières de Nîmes with Margalet.

La Fête du Fromage - Tome de Brebis Sarde

At first I thought this week's cheese might be cheating a bit.
I bought it in France, but the name had me thinking that it was made in Sardinia. But it was so mouth-watering good that I decided to go ahead and include it in la Fête anyway.

Luckily for me, no cheating was required. After tirelessly researching this cheese for hours (which of course, I am happy to do for readers of la Fête du Fromage) I discovered that the cheese isn't made in Sardinia, rather from the milk of a breed of sheep called the Sarda - or Sarde in French. Here's a sweet photo of a herd.

I can now present this Tome de Brebis Sarde as a bonafide, genuine French cheese. And a good one, at that.

More exhaustive research regarding the producers or origins of Tome de Brebis Sarde has revealed absolutely nothing. Though, I think it could be either Corsican or from the Auvergne. I purchased this nice piece from a local cheese vendor at the Olonzac market a few weeks ago and was going to ask her where it comes from when I went in for some shopping this morning, but the market got rained out.
Has anyone else ever tried it?

So, on to the taste...
It had mildly sharp, sweet and tangy flavors that reminded me a bit of Pecorino from Italy. (There is a Pecorino Sardo, an Italian cheese that is produced only the island of Sardinia) The texture was semi-firm and chewy and it had a sweet, light aroma. We both loved the toothsome texture and the rich flavor of this Tome and thought it was absolutely perfect with a glass of local red wine. I'll be purchasing more of this one in the future!

Next week I plan on having some more information about its origins.

Photo du Jour - Bacon Pralines

Edible crack, that's what this is. And I'm hooked.

Bacon Pralines are the most tempting, delicious mélange of smoky-salty and sugary sweet flavors. It is dangerous, addictive stuff. And they're selling it down on the corner, just a block away from my "home" in New Orleans.

I plan on bringing at least a kilo back to France with me. Hope I don't get stopped by Customs.

Another treat from Cochon Butcher.

Photo du Jour

Our little cutie, Speck.

La Fête du Fromage - Fromage de Chèvre Fermier

Over the last year and a half I've tasted cheese blanketed with crushed walnuts, cheese covered and matured in grape marc, cheese wrapped in grape leaves, cheese washed with marc de Bourgogne, cheese sprinkled with winter savory and cheese dusted with ash.

Now here's a new one: this little fromage de chèvre is coated in minced seaweed.

My friend in Brittany recently discovered it and was so impressed that she thought it would be a great addition to la Fête du Fromage and sent me a piece. She was right!

It has no name.
The label only gives the name of the producers and the name of the farm, Élevage du Saint-Goal, in Pluvigner, and calls the cheese simply, Fromage de Chèvre fermier au lait cru.

The seaweed lightly infuses the unpasteurized goat's cheese with grass and herb flavors and there is a salty sea taste, which one would expect. There is none of that pronounced "goatiness" that turn some people off, rather a gentle, sweet, milky flavor. The texture is thick and rich, a little chalky and pleasantly chewy.

This cheese is a wonderful find! Maybe she'll send us some more one day. (hint hint)

We enjoyed some light, white wine with this fromage de chèvre. Some hard apple cider would also be good.

Photo du Jour

Our first lettuce this spring.

At least I can grow something!

Gnocchi with Caramelized Brussels Sprouts and Pecans

Well, it's official. Autumn is definitely my favorite season.
Twenty years ago I would have said summer and ten years ago I most likely would have voted for spring. (never been smitten with winter)

Now, it is autumn. No doubt.

The temperature is usually perfect - not too hot and not too cool - and the light turns this gorgeous golden color that I find absolutely stunning. When the sun shines through the leaves on the plane trees they shimmer in beautiful shades of pale green and amber, and the colors in the vineyards range from honey to deep orange to bright crimson. It is seriously gorgeous.
My camera gets an intense workout in October and early November!

Another reason to celebrate autumn; Brussels sprouts are back! And we love them.

This is a hearty dish that offers a scrumptious mix of flavors. The gnocchi and bacon are rich, the sprouts are golden and caramelized (I can't resist anything once it has been caramelized!) and the pecans add a nice crunch to the dish.

Gnocchi with Caramelized Brussels Sprouts and Pecans
serves 4 hearty appetites

2 ounces thick cut, smoked bacon
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic gloves, smashed a bit but left whole
2 pounds Brussels sprouts, outer leaves trimmed and larger sprouts cut in half
1/4 to 1/2 cup water
salt and pepper to taste
1 pound gnocchi
1/4 cup reserved pasta water
1/2 cup toasted pecans, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh thyme

In a skillet large enough to hold the Brussels sprouts in one layer, heat the olive oil to medium and saute the bacon with the garlic cloves until the garlic is lightly browned and the bacon is crisp, about 4 minutes. Remove the bacon from the skillet and set aside and discard the garlic cloves.
Raise the heat to medium high and add the sprouts to the pan, stirring to coat evenly with the olive oil. Leave the sprouts to cook undisturbed in a single layer for about five minutes, until they develop a deep brown, caramelized color. Stir to allow the other side of the sprouts to brown as well. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Deglaze the pan with 1/4 cup of water and stir well to loosen any caramelized bits on the bottom of the pan. Cover and reduce to a simmer.
Meanwhile bring a pot of water to boil for the gnocchi and cook according to package directions.
Test the sprouts for doneness by piercing with a sharp knife; they should be al dente, not mushy. Add more water and cook longer if needed. As soon as they are done, scoop the gnocchi out of the water with a slotted spoon and add to the pan with the Brussels sprouts.
Stir in the bacon, chopped pecans and thyme and turn the heat to high to thicken the sauce. Add a bit of reserved pasta water if necessary.
Taste for seasonings.
Serve and enjoy!

La Fête du Fromage - à demain

The photos have been taken. The cheese has been tasted. However, today's la Fête du Fromage has not been written.

Please look for it tomorrow.

Merci!

Photo du Jour

Rusting away.

Roasted Red Peppers

Voluptuous red peppers, slick with extra virgin olive oil and infused with pungent slices of raw garlic.

I can never make enough of these. They disappear in a fraction of the time it takes to roast, steam, peel, shred and marinate them.
But, oh are they worth it!

They are worth the red stained fingernails (it fades quickly) and the blast of heat I took in the face when I opened the oven door because I wasn't paying attention. They are worth the at least ten degree rise in temperature in our house from having the broiler on this morning. And they are worth the copious amounts of olive oil you need to smother them sufficiently, because that oil then makes the world's most sublime vinaigrette!

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They are amazing eaten on their own or on slices of grilled bread. Then, if by some chance there are some leftover, I add them to tarts and savory cakes.

Roasted and Marinated Red Peppers
serves 4-6

6 red peppers
6 cloves garlic
extra virgin olive oil

Heat the broiler. Place the peppers on an aluminum foil lined baking sheet and broil about 4-5 inches away from the heat until the pepper's skin is charred and blistered.
Turn and continue until all sides have been roasted.
Remove foil and peppers to a plate and wrap the peppers up in the foil. Leave to steam for about 20 minutes.
Unwrap and leave the peppers to cool, then remove the skin and seeds with your fingers. It should all peel off easily. NEVER rinse them under running water to remove skin and seeds. You will lose all that beautiful roasted flavor.
Tear into strips and place them in a shallow dish.
Slice the garlic into thick slices and scatter them over the peppers, tucking some under and in between.
Pour enough olive oil over until all the peppers are submerged.
Cover and marinate overnight in the fridge. Bring back to room temperature before serving.