Relaxing in the gardens behind le Palais Royal, one of my favorite spots in Paris.
Photo du Jour - Love That Cheese
Last weekend's long Sunday lunch's cheese platter.
Mimolette - Orange chunk
Chèvre Frais - Pyramid in the middle
Bleu d'Auvergne - Piece on the left
Pérail des Alizers - The two joined rounds on the bottom
Unknown - Bright orange at top of platter. I didn't buy them, so I can't remember! Maybe a Chaumes?
Conversation
A typical conversation between us:
him "Honey, do we have any cheese in the house?"
me "Yes, but I haven't photographed it yet..."
He knows what that means.
him "Honey, do we have any cheese in the house?"
me "Yes, but I haven't photographed it yet..."
He knows what that means.
Perfect Paris - Day 1
There wasn't a single arrondissement I didn't eat in, wander through, sip a coffee in or shop in.
The fact that I had four beautiful, sunny, warm days in Paris, just at the cusp of the autumn equinox, well...I consider that pretty near perfect.
The train pulled into the Gare de Lyon at 9:45 AM and I was full of energy and ready to go after a 1½ hour nap on the train from Béziers. Several minutes on Metro line 14 brought me to the Gare St. Lazare where I transferred to line 13 and another few stops brought me to my friend's apartment where a cup of hot, greatly appreciated coffee was waiting for me.
After dumping my bags, catching up and a quick lunch of homemade Thai curry, we secured her 6 month old son, le petit, in his backpack and took off to enjoy the weather and to find the first of many, many cheese shops on my list.
Heading across into the 18th, we found the fromagerie Chez Virginie easily, only to find it closed until 4 PM.
As we were just on the edge of the winding, charming streets of Montmartre with its memorable church of Sacré-Coeur, perched on the top of the hill like a snowy white wedding cake topper, so we dove straight in to explore.
We found the tiny, peaceful cemetery of Saint Vincent down a little lane. It's full of intriguing looking tombs and beautiful flowers and trees everywhere. Several people were sitting on benches, picnicking and soaking up the sun.
We didn't climb up the famous rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic (we explored them on my last trip to Paris), rather skirted around the bottom of the hill, window shopped and enjoyed some time in a café until Chez Virginie reopened.
It was a cheese lover's paradise. Honestly.
(But then again, Paris in general is a cheese lover's paradise!)
Fromagerie Chez Virginie
54 rue Damrémont
75018 Paris
Dinner at a friend's was planned for the evening and our feet were screaming at us by now, so I finished up my oohing and aahing over the marvelous array of cheeses, made my purchases and we went home to rest.
The dinner invitation came over the summer from our French neighbors, one of which is from the village, who have renovated an old winemakers barn into their holiday home. When they found out I was going to Paris I was kindly invited to join them for dinner. The evening was a great mix of 3 Americans and 5 French, delicious food, cheese and wine and of course, discussions about American politics.
Our French friend told me he has been donating money to Obama's campaign. Bravo!
A quick cab ride at midnight and we were home. I needed sleep to prepare for another day.
The fact that I had four beautiful, sunny, warm days in Paris, just at the cusp of the autumn equinox, well...I consider that pretty near perfect.
The train pulled into the Gare de Lyon at 9:45 AM and I was full of energy and ready to go after a 1½ hour nap on the train from Béziers. Several minutes on Metro line 14 brought me to the Gare St. Lazare where I transferred to line 13 and another few stops brought me to my friend's apartment where a cup of hot, greatly appreciated coffee was waiting for me.
After dumping my bags, catching up and a quick lunch of homemade Thai curry, we secured her 6 month old son, le petit, in his backpack and took off to enjoy the weather and to find the first of many, many cheese shops on my list.
Heading across into the 18th, we found the fromagerie Chez Virginie easily, only to find it closed until 4 PM.
As we were just on the edge of the winding, charming streets of Montmartre with its memorable church of Sacré-Coeur, perched on the top of the hill like a snowy white wedding cake topper, so we dove straight in to explore.
We found the tiny, peaceful cemetery of Saint Vincent down a little lane. It's full of intriguing looking tombs and beautiful flowers and trees everywhere. Several people were sitting on benches, picnicking and soaking up the sun.
We didn't climb up the famous rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic (we explored them on my last trip to Paris), rather skirted around the bottom of the hill, window shopped and enjoyed some time in a café until Chez Virginie reopened.
It was a cheese lover's paradise. Honestly.
(But then again, Paris in general is a cheese lover's paradise!)
Fromagerie Chez Virginie
54 rue Damrémont
75018 Paris
Dinner at a friend's was planned for the evening and our feet were screaming at us by now, so I finished up my oohing and aahing over the marvelous array of cheeses, made my purchases and we went home to rest.
The dinner invitation came over the summer from our French neighbors, one of which is from the village, who have renovated an old winemakers barn into their holiday home. When they found out I was going to Paris I was kindly invited to join them for dinner. The evening was a great mix of 3 Americans and 5 French, delicious food, cheese and wine and of course, discussions about American politics.
Our French friend told me he has been donating money to Obama's campaign. Bravo!
A quick cab ride at midnight and we were home. I needed sleep to prepare for another day.
La Fête du Fromage - La Bonde de Gâtine
Another week. Another goat's cheese.
This is the fifth week in a row that I've tasted a fromage de chèvre for La Fête du Fromage.
Why so many goat's cheeses lately? Well, they just seem to be everywhere.
They come so many interesting shapes and sizes, and in all sorts of tempting textures and stages of affinage, I find that I just can't resist them.
And the most recent discovery, la Bonde de Gâtine, has proven itself to be irresistible!
La Bonde de Gâtine is produced on small farms in the marshy Gâtine region, in the picturesque Poitou-Charentes. It takes a full 2 liters of unpasteurized goat's milk to make one little, drum shaped cheese. A fact that is unmistakable when you bite into its ultra rich, dense, chalky and finely textured pâte.
A pleasant, fruity tang hits your taste buds first, followed by hazelnuts and a fair amount of saltiness. The crust is lightly sprinkled in ash and allowed to develop a layer of natural, edible mold during its 1-2 months of affinage, resulting in a sometimes fuzzy, blue-grey, wrinkly appearance.
This is a cheese to savor. Slowly.
It is so luxurious and full-bodied that a small morsel goes a long way. La Bonde de Gâtine is one that you must try!
Enjoy with a dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, or a light red such as Beaujolais.
This is the fifth week in a row that I've tasted a fromage de chèvre for La Fête du Fromage.
Why so many goat's cheeses lately? Well, they just seem to be everywhere.
They come so many interesting shapes and sizes, and in all sorts of tempting textures and stages of affinage, I find that I just can't resist them.
And the most recent discovery, la Bonde de Gâtine, has proven itself to be irresistible!
La Bonde de Gâtine is produced on small farms in the marshy Gâtine region, in the picturesque Poitou-Charentes. It takes a full 2 liters of unpasteurized goat's milk to make one little, drum shaped cheese. A fact that is unmistakable when you bite into its ultra rich, dense, chalky and finely textured pâte.
A pleasant, fruity tang hits your taste buds first, followed by hazelnuts and a fair amount of saltiness. The crust is lightly sprinkled in ash and allowed to develop a layer of natural, edible mold during its 1-2 months of affinage, resulting in a sometimes fuzzy, blue-grey, wrinkly appearance.
This is a cheese to savor. Slowly.
It is so luxurious and full-bodied that a small morsel goes a long way. La Bonde de Gâtine is one that you must try!
Enjoy with a dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, or a light red such as Beaujolais.
A last Amsterdam Treat
As Dutch cuisine has not many mysteries to be explored, so my Amsterdam treats have been more spiritual, if I may say!
I love love love opera and when I travel for work or leisure, I always try to get tickets for a performance - no matter what's on stage! Thus, I have been able to see productions in Stockholm's beautiful Royal Swedish Opera, in Copenhagen at The Opera for an opening season performance of Verdi's Lady Macbeth that was attended by the Queen of Denmark, in London at Covent Gardens, where the Royal Opera House 's la Boheme made me discover the beautiful voice of Marcelo Alvarez, the Argentinian tenor, in Budapest at the Operahaz (oh, a wonderful La Traviata back in 1992), in Venice, the season when La Fenice opened after the fire, in Sarasota, (where we had Champagne in plastic glasses), Santa Fe. under the rain before it was covered.. and more!
So during my Amsterdam visit I headed for the Muziektheater to attend a performance of Bellini's I Puritani. Arriving was magic as next to the old buildings, an old bridge, a canal, and the house boats, the Opera House shines with a thousand neon lights! Light is the main theme, the entrance is full of white light as well. 
Inside the building, there are neon lights that underscore the lines of the balconies and stairs. The carpet is coral color, creating a smooth warm atmosphere. 
As you push two double doors to walk inside the hall, there is a transition of colors, from Coral through dark red (bordeaux), to shocking red .... Here are the four colors in two wall panels and two different colors of carpet.
Yes, the interior in full shocking red seats over 1600 people and shines with hundreds of lights in the ceiling (the lights hide all the lights' beams and scene spots) and alongside the two balconies. 
I had an excellent seat in the orchestra bought at the last minute through the opera house website (row 9). I could "touch" the performers! It was full of emotion and I was very happy to be there. 
At the end of Act I, I had a salmon sandwich with a glass of wine in one fo the many bars.I was in a perfect mood!
The performance finished at 11:15 pm and I headed home with my head full of music and emotions.
Pierre Marcolini: A very special chocolate treat
When my niece and nephew came home to greet their abuela (who is also my mother!) they brought us a beautiful box of Pierre Marcolini chocolates.I had discovered this chocolate shop when I visited Brussels in March 2008 and had found the display of chocolates as well as the chosen flavors stunning and worth a detour.
The presentation is so exquisite that I feel he does "haute couture" when it comes to chocolate!
The flavors are innovative and challenging.
A true delight! Thank you Gustave and Geraldine.
Photo du Jour - September in the Vineyards
These should be picked in a week or two.
I've heard that the grapes haven't had a chance to plump up very much this year due to lack of rain.
Laughing all the way to the café
The ban begins today!
I'll actually be able to enjoy une noisette in the closed up cafés during the winter without choking on cigarette smoke.
The question is...will they actually enforce the new law down here in these little towns and villages?
I'll actually be able to enjoy une noisette in the closed up cafés during the winter without choking on cigarette smoke.
The question is...will they actually enforce the new law down here in these little towns and villages?
Easter Brunch in SFO
The cupcakes were very delicious. Becky made a tasty mushroom omelet with hash brown potatoes and we had wonderful fresh fruit and juice. Quite a feast!
Photo du Jour - l'Épicerie
Most small villages in our area have the vestiges of an old café, an old boulangerie and an old épicerie. Sometimes they're still open for business and sometimes their faded shutters are closed up tight and the building is left to deteriorate.
This little épicerie is now closed, but happily the owners have made the effort to preserve its quaint, vintage facade.
A DOMO plate warmer .. at last!
I have been saying for years that I need a plate warmer. Well ... it's done!
It is true that it makes a big difference! You wait until everyone is served before staring your meal and by then, your meal is cold. I enjoy the warm plates at restaurants because my meal is kept hot longer. But somehow I had never got around to buy one. This is my DOMO dish warmer!
I put it on the side double tray table I always have when I entertain. I place it with the plates inside (you can put up to 8, two at a time) and plug it. When I am ready for the main course, I remove the plates on the table and replace them with my warm plates. What a difference does it make!
A week-end in Sanary
Sanary is a small port in Provence, between Marseilles and Toulon. The freshest fish can be found, straing from the boat to the consumer. We visited our good friends Michele and Jean Pierre the time of a week-end that was so revigorating that it seemed a whole week. 
While Michele biked to the port, did some shopping, and chose the cafe called Sport for a drink, Jean Pierre was preparing, as usual, a most sophisticated meal. 
He had asked us to buy chestnut flour and I was wondering what he was going to do with it! 
This time the meal started with a cream of chestnut flour with sauteed wild mushrooms and cream. It was very delicious - but Jean-Pierre will not share his secrets! The main course was a pair of small grilled red mullets with a garnish of a spinach canelloni prepared with rice flour. Miam! 
For dessert, Michele presented a beautiful tray of Middle East delicacies she had brought from their recent trip to Jordan. A beauttiful meal plus a solid friendship is a perfect combination! 
I take this opportunity to share with you a blog I have just discovered: Paris on Demand Paris lovers will find tons of information and treasures!
While Michele biked to the port, did some shopping, and chose the cafe called Sport for a drink, Jean Pierre was preparing, as usual, a most sophisticated meal. He had asked us to buy chestnut flour and I was wondering what he was going to do with it! This time the meal started with a cream of chestnut flour with sauteed wild mushrooms and cream. It was very delicious - but Jean-Pierre will not share his secrets! The main course was a pair of small grilled red mullets with a garnish of a spinach canelloni prepared with rice flour. Miam! For dessert, Michele presented a beautiful tray of Middle East delicacies she had brought from their recent trip to Jordan. A beauttiful meal plus a solid friendship is a perfect combination! I take this opportunity to share with you a blog I have just discovered: Paris on Demand Paris lovers will find tons of information and treasures!La Fête du Fromage - La Taupinière
Natural, blue-grey mold encases this ash covered, unpasteurized, award winning goat's cheese.La Taupinière was invented by goat farmer Gilles Jousseaume in 1973 on his farm near Angoulême in the Poitou-Charentes region of western France. All of the grain, which supplements the goat's diet of fresh grass, is grown on this small, family owned farm, resulting in a cheese that has a consistent quality and intense, rich flavor.
Cutting through the rustic looking, moldy exterior reveals a beautiful, winter-white interior that comes from highly concentrated milk. The texture of the cheese is super smooth, creamy and melts on your tongue. The flavor is deliciously hazelnutty, surprisingly mild, lactic and tangy.
La Taupinière is highly fragrant, to put it mildly. I had to triple wrap it for my train ride home from Paris so as not to commit an olfactory offense.
I couldn't recommend this cheese more. If I had some sort of cheese rating, on a scale of 1 to 10, it would have to be a 10!
Enjoy with a glass of Haut-Poitou.
La Taupinière is French for molehill.
17 €!
Paris, here I come!
SNCF sent an email last month advertising special train prices to various cities. I typed in Béziers to Paris and and an unbelievable price popped up - only 17€ each way!
I immediately called my friend who had invited me to stay and booked my tickets.
Going to Paris is still like a dream to me. In 5½ years of living in France I've only been once.
There are a few things I plan on doing over the four days but mainly I just want to BE in Paris.
To wander the streets aimlessly, explore little streets and alleyways, sit in cafés and watch people (so cliché but I love it) and take endless photographs.
La vie est belle.
SNCF sent an email last month advertising special train prices to various cities. I typed in Béziers to Paris and and an unbelievable price popped up - only 17€ each way!
I immediately called my friend who had invited me to stay and booked my tickets.
Going to Paris is still like a dream to me. In 5½ years of living in France I've only been once.
There are a few things I plan on doing over the four days but mainly I just want to BE in Paris.
To wander the streets aimlessly, explore little streets and alleyways, sit in cafés and watch people (so cliché but I love it) and take endless photographs.
La vie est belle.
Afternoon pause
My good friend Elizabeth came for coffee. This is what I presented.
Brazilian coffee in a French press, a white cup an saucer with blue edge and line (gift from another dear friend), a Japanese plate with dates that my daughter brought from a recent trip to Dubai, and dry wild figs from Andalusia, in Spain. I had "White Teat", a rare delicacy, in a tea bag, the last one, given to me for Christmas ... two years ago by Jennifer. I had it in a Laura Ashley blue and white tea mug. Sugar was presented in a Chinese sugar pot. Everything in a wooden lacquer square black tray. Presentation really adds to the pleasure!
TODAY : FOOD QUIZZ
Simply tomatoes!
Look at some of the varieties of tomato I can find in my market!
The producer gave me the names in French. Who can put name tags in English?
Look at some of the varieties of tomato I can find in my market!
The producer gave me the names in French. Who can put name tags in English?
Among those shown here:
Tomate ananas,
Coeur de boeuf,
Cornue des Andes,
Tomate verte,
Tomate noire de Crimee,
....
Ensaimada from Mallorca by Blogger Martine
What do you have for breakfast? 
Blogger Martina from Mallorca, Spain, has just sent me an email with a delicious picture of an ensaimada, the typical dessert of her land. Mallorca Isalnd is off the Spanish coast in the Mediterranean.
She says: "we have it every day for breakfast, or with coffee, or for celebrations. In these occasions, it is filled with cream, "nata", "angel's hair", almond cream ... "
It used to be made at home, its ingredients are: floure, water, eggs, sugar, lard (called saïm in Mallorquín, the local dialect, which gives its name to the dessert) and yeast, but nowadays all local pastry shop make fresh ones everyday.
They can also be ordered in a cafe until 11 am or Noon.
The ensaimada can only be found in the Isla de Mallorca, it is not available in Spain or elsewhere. If you want to know more about Ensaimada from Mallorca, this unique pastry has a whole website at its disposal!
Martine says that Mallorca Island's people are much like Corsica's, the French island off the Cote d'Azur, in the Mediterranean. While in Provence 10 days ago, we had a delicious Corsica lunch ...
Travelers buy them at the airport as well when leaving Mallorca, and it is a common sight to see them holidng round boxes in their hands.
Today, January 30, is Santa Martina, so let's celebrate Martina's day with her! I bet she is having Ensaimada!
Blogger Martina from Mallorca, Spain, has just sent me an email with a delicious picture of an ensaimada, the typical dessert of her land. Mallorca Isalnd is off the Spanish coast in the Mediterranean.She says: "we have it every day for breakfast, or with coffee, or for celebrations. In these occasions, it is filled with cream, "nata", "angel's hair", almond cream ... "
It used to be made at home, its ingredients are: floure, water, eggs, sugar, lard (called saïm in Mallorquín, the local dialect, which gives its name to the dessert) and yeast, but nowadays all local pastry shop make fresh ones everyday.
They can also be ordered in a cafe until 11 am or Noon.
The ensaimada can only be found in the Isla de Mallorca, it is not available in Spain or elsewhere. If you want to know more about Ensaimada from Mallorca, this unique pastry has a whole website at its disposal!
Martine says that Mallorca Island's people are much like Corsica's, the French island off the Cote d'Azur, in the Mediterranean. While in Provence 10 days ago, we had a delicious Corsica lunch ...
Travelers buy them at the airport as well when leaving Mallorca, and it is a common sight to see them holidng round boxes in their hands.
Today, January 30, is Santa Martina, so let's celebrate Martina's day with her! I bet she is having Ensaimada!
Crab Cakes for dinner- and a cool deck to savor them
Meet Fran, Charly, and Roxy!
Heat the oil to 375 F in a large frying pan where the eight crab cakes can be fried. 
Place very gently the crab cakes one by one in the pan, fry until brown. 
Fran, Charlie (and Roxy!) invited us to savor home made crab cakes during our stay in the Bay Area. Charlie not only enjoys eating well, but is an excellent cook. The crab cakes really tasted ... crab, which is of course how they are supposed to taste, but too often crab cakes taste like bread crumbs, or egg, or whatever binder ingredient has been used ... I asked him to share with us his recipe.
Mix 1 lb of crab meat, some chopped spring onions, chopped cilantro, 3 Tbsp of bread crumbs (use plain), 4 Tbsp mayonnaise in a bowl. Be gently! Season with sea salt and ground peeper to taste. Add 1 large egg beaten, and mix very gently with a wooden spoon. Divide into eight same size portions and shape like the picture above shows. Put on a sheet of wax paper, cover, and let chill at least 30 minutes. Take out of the fridge and and put 4 Tbs flour on a soup plate and carefully dredge the crab cakes in the flour, on both sides.
Heat the oil to 375 F in a large frying pan where the eight crab cakes can be fried. Place very gently the crab cakes one by one in the pan, fry until brown. Once they are brown on one side, turn one by one and fry on the other side. Remove, place on paper so that excess oil is absorbed and serve immediately.
We had these delicious crab cakes with a home made Chipotle and Chili Sauce and a side salad.
Tomorrow I'll tell you what Charlie had prepared for dessert!
Photo du Jour - YES!
...but no, I can't tell you what It was.
Taken in Paris. Has anyone ever seen this sign and knows what It is?
Saturday Dinner
After a marathon cleaning session Saturday morning (boring boring boring - but there was so much dog and cat hair everywhere it had to be done), I spent the afternoon doing what I love most - cooking!
Dinner for my husband and me and a friend:
- arugula, sliced red onion and tomato salad
- an "updated" Coq au Vin made with white wine
- dark chocolate brownies with vanilla and cinnamon laced whipped cream
Definitely a laid back, Saturday night dinner menu!
The "updated" Coq au Vin recipe is one that I've made several times and I think it is fabulous! Really fresh and full of bright, tangy flavors.
It's from an article in last April's Food and Wine magazine entitled Updating Coq au Vin. I've played with all of the recipes and think they're versatile and delicious.
Zesty Braised Chicken With Lemon and Capers
serves 4
Dinner for my husband and me and a friend:
- arugula, sliced red onion and tomato salad
- an "updated" Coq au Vin made with white wine
- dark chocolate brownies with vanilla and cinnamon laced whipped cream
Definitely a laid back, Saturday night dinner menu!
The "updated" Coq au Vin recipe is one that I've made several times and I think it is fabulous! Really fresh and full of bright, tangy flavors.
It's from an article in last April's Food and Wine magazine entitled Updating Coq au Vin. I've played with all of the recipes and think they're versatile and delicious.
Zesty Braised Chicken With Lemon and Capers
serves 4
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs with skin (6 ounces each)
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
- All-purpose flour, for dusting
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 large peeled garlic cloves
- 1 1/2 cups Sauvignon Blanc
- 1 1/2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
- Four 1-inch strips of lemon zest
- 4 thyme sprigs
- 1 tablespoon capers, drained
- 1 bay leaf
- Preheat the oven to 350°. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and dust with flour. In a large ovenproof skillet, melt the butter in the oil. Add the chicken, skin side down, and cook over high heat, turning once, until browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large plate and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.
- Add the garlic to the skillet and cook over low heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and boil over high heat until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add the stock, lemon zest, thyme, capers and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Return the chicken to the pan, skin side up. Transfer the skillet to the oven and braise for about 45 minutes, until the meat is tender.
- Return the skillet to the stove and boil until the sauce is slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Discard the thyme, bay leaf and lemon zest, if desired, before serving.
Onions (Allium)!
In my local market ONIONS are plenty!
Onions can be eaten raw in salads, they combine wonderfully with tomatoes; they can be pcikled ("pearl onions" are pickled, scroll down and read post on raclette ); they give cooked foods a distinct flavor, most sauces have onions (or shallots, see tomorrow's post), you can make onion compote (see recipe in my website http://www.aworldinapan.com/ ), or an onion quiche; and last but not least, they have been used through history by different civilisations, for their effectiveness against some illnesses ...
Onions can be eaten raw in salads, they combine wonderfully with tomatoes; they can be pcikled ("pearl onions" are pickled, scroll down and read post on raclette ); they give cooked foods a distinct flavor, most sauces have onions (or shallots, see tomorrow's post), you can make onion compote (see recipe in my website http://www.aworldinapan.com/ ), or an onion quiche; and last but not least, they have been used through history by different civilisations, for their effectiveness against some illnesses ...
Pictures show several types on onions: Upper left, Cevennes Onions, a mild onion I use in some preparations (see Fennel compote), the common onion, a "passe-par-tout", that adapts to your needs, the red onion ... and below, fresh onions. I use the green leaves of these onions for some preparations too (in France, they discard them!) ... Dry onions can be stored for a long time in a cold dry place. Enjoy!
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