The Crescent City




My annual trek to the Crescent City begins tomorrow. At 3:15 AM. Oh joy.
After thirteen hours of flying time and more than eight hours of sitting in various airports I will finally land, very excited, yet exhausted from not being able to sleep in those instruments of torture they call economy class seats.

I try very hard not to complain about flying and to remember that it is only several hours out of my life, and so worth it to have the ability to get halfway across the world in less than a day, but when you're as short as I am, those headrests that are there to support the necks of normal sized people actually thrust the heads of us shorter people forward, causing agonizing neck pain after 11 hours on a transatlantic flight.

The other night I had a dream that the airline gave away my seat before I got on the plane so they offered me a big, roomy one in first class to apologize.
Ah, if only my dream would come true...

I'm not holding my breath.




Anyway....
You won't be reading about cheese and wine and France, or seeing any photos of the local markets, villages and vineyards for the next few weeks.

It will be all about New Orleans - friends and festivities, po boy's and Mardi Gras parades, and hopefully a visit to The Marigny Brasserie, the St. James Cheese Company (you can't expect me to go 3 weeks without at least some cheese, can you?) and Donald Link's new charcuterie place next door to the spectacular Cochon.

Then I fly off to Spokane, Washington, where I grew up, to visit family and friends and buy as much soft peanut butter brittle that can fit in my suitcase. My only disappointment about going to Spokane...no Trader Joe's to loot!


So I'll be around, posting photos and writing a bit from the road.

À bientôt.


Photo du Jour - Colors of Marseille


Faded sign in le Panier.

This quirky quartier, one of the oldest in Marseille, is a maze of narrow streets and steep staircases lined with colorful old houses, art and craft galleries, cafés and restaurants.

Le Panier's current claim to fame - it's the backdrop for the popular night time French soap opera, Plus Belle la Vie (often called PBLV).

Photo du Jour - Old Gate


The entrance to an old wine domaine.

Simple and Red


I love this simple, square plates, that contras the rich Damas tablecloth.

Photos du Jour - Our Street

Walk out our front door....


...look right...



...look left.

Pretty good views, if you ask me.

Corn Chowder

The wind is howling. Dark grey, puffy clouds are sailing across a crisp blue sky.
Sun one minute, dark the next.

Time for some Chowder. Not Clam Chowder. Don't like clams.
Unfortunately no scallops in the house for Scallop Chowder. I love scallops.
I did manage to find a big can of corn in the depths of our mini pantry and we had some potatoes, onions and carrots. So, Corn Chowder it is.



Corn Chowder
serves 6-8

2 ounces thick cut bacon, diced

2 cups onion, diced
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 celery rib, diced (optional)
8 ounces white or yellow potatoes, peeled and diced
5 cups chicken stock
2 fresh thyme sprigs
3 cups corn - canned, frozen or fresh (about 6 ears)
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
a pinch of cayenne (optional)

Cook bacon in a large, heavy pot over moderate heat, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.
Add onion, carrots and optional celery to bacon fat and cook, stirring, until onion is softened, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the potatoes, chicken stock and thyme and simmer, covered, until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Add the corn and cream and simmer 10 minutes, uncovered.
Add salt and pepper to taste, and optional cayenne, then stir in bacon and serve.

Photo du Jour - from Belgium


Our friends returned from Belgium and surprised us with a box full of goodies.

I especially like the look of the chocolate granules that are sprinkled on toast (good way to start the day if you ask me) and the smelly little block of cheese that has been aged in beer. Yum!
We're super excited to try everything.

They own one of the most exquisite chambres d'hôtes you'll ever see. If you need a place to stay in the Minervois (sorry, but our house is too small) you will fall in love with them and their B & B, Sur les Remparts.

Photo du Jour - Café


Just around the corner.

Photo du Jour - La Glycine


Icy purple wisteria creeping up a stone house.

Caipirinha + Champagne = Mal de Tête

Every couple of months or so my girlfriends and I get together for an evening of girl talk and a catch up on each others lives. Sometimes we watch a movie, sometimes we dance, always we discuss juicy topics and share delicious food and drink.

At our last gathering it was my night off of work and I wasn't driving. I had one little, teensy-weensy caipirinha and a couple glasses (well, maybe three) of Champagne. The next morning...ouch.
A headache of epic proportions.


So the next time you're offered caipirinhas and Champagne, stick with one or the other.
Don't say I didn't warn you.

La Fête du Fromage - Roussin and Galotin du Dauphiné

Roussin and Galotin du Dauphiné are two petit, essentially bite-sized cheeses that I picked up at our local Intermarché.
I have to admit, it was their cute, dainty little size and the fact that they were sold in packs of four that sold me. And the Saint-Félicien...well, I had to buy some, it is irresistible!


Le Roussin is produced in the Haute-Marne by a cheesemaker who also makes two of France's most memorable cow's milk AOC cheeses, Langres and Époisses. Its full name is Roussin au marc de Bourgogne and it is rich, meltingly soft and creamy, with pleasant salty and mushroom flavors. The cheese's rind is bathed in marc de Bourgogne and is quite aromatic, but I tasted no lingering flavor from the spirits.
Some Chablis or Champagne would be a good wine match.

Le Galotin du Dauphiné is produced alongside Saint-Félicien and Saint-Marcellin cheeses in the Isère département of southwestern France. Its dry, chalky and chewy texture is similar to an aged Saint-Félicien. This is a mild, nutty flavored, soft cheese that just wasn't that special. Basically, it lacks character. If given the choice, I would prefer either Saint-Félicien or Saint-Marcellin to Le Galotin du Dauphiné.
A glass of red Côtes de Ventoux or white Viognier would pair with any of these three cheeses.


Both Roussin and Galotin du Dauphiné, although produced by individual cheesemakers, are sold by Rians a company that sells fromage blanc, yogurt, cheeses and other dairy products. (be warned - the website plays music)

The Boys in Blue

We were told that the Gendarmes would be stopping by the house at some point to interview me as part of the French Citizenship process.

Sure enough, Wednesday afternoon a blue Gendarmes-mobile pulled up in front of the house, with two boys in blue asking if this was the home of yours truly. We are amazed at how quickly this is all happening. My application was just accepted at the end of November so we thought we would have at least 5-6 months before they would show up.
Is it my imagination, or is France becoming more efficient?

I calmly said to my husband, "the Gendarmes are here," as I looked around the house, thanking my lucky stars that I had dusted, vacuumed and organized all the crap lying around the living room only a couple of days before. And trying to remain calm. We had know idea what kind of information they would ask for.

There was no need to worry.

The questions were very basic. They wanted to see my carte de séjour and asked the following:

When did you arrive in France?
How long have you lived in the house?
Why do you want to become a French citizen?
Have you integrated into the community?
What kind of work do you do?
How do you afford to live in France?
Have you ever been involved in politics?
Have you ever been convicted of a crime?

That was it!
He told us he was happy with our answers and that his report would be sent to the next level.

I was literally skipping with joy when they left. This year just might see me becoming a French citizen!

Photo du Jour - Minervois Wine


La Livinière's winemakers hosted a great wine and tapas evening last night.

In addition to wine, charcuterie, moules frites and duck breast sandwiches (not exactly my definition of tapas, but we're in France, not Spain, so I guess it's more loosely defined) the evening offered live music by a very traditional brass band and a separate dance floor complete with a modern, Mararena-playing DJ and flashing disco lights.

Not a bad way to spend a Saturday night.

Photo du Jour - Language


One of the amusing ways that the English language is used in France. This was on the front page of Thursday's local paper, the Midi Libre.

Translation: Pézenas A traffic stop uncovers marijuana traffickers.

Photo du Jour


Our village church that often has laundry hanging to dry on clotheslines strung between the buttresses!

Photo du Jour - La Livinière


The wine making village of La Livinière with its uniquely shaped 10th century bell tower.

Photo du Jour - Bons Amis


Five carved stone faces in la Place des Bons Amis in Béziers.

Simple. Satisfying. Soup.

Bacon, Bean and Pasta Soup
This is the only decent photo I took. I was in too much of a hurry to dive in.

I am a serious believer and lover of soup.
As soon as the evenings start getting even a slightly bit chilly, I happily grab my favorite soup pot, head to the fridge, freezer and cupboard and start concocting soup recipes.
Almost a different one every night.


Sometimes I like to have a base recipe to build on and sometimes I just make it up.  The results are always the same - delicious!

And as my 11 year old niece and 16 year old nephew in California proved last week, kids love soup!  I made the Potimarron Soup (recipe below) and the Bacon, Bean and Pasta Soup (pictured above and recipe below) for them over the course of a few days and they absolutely inhaled them.
At dinner they each had a bowl, then went back for seconds, then for thirds.  Then they ate the leftovers as an after school snack the following day.
I would say that's proof enough.


This simple and satisfying dish can be on the table in about 30 minutes. 
I served it with Parmesan toasts and a green salad.

Bacon, Bean and Pasta Soup
from BBC Good Food
serves 4
  • 8 rashers rindless streaky bacon, chopped
  • 2 leeks, halved and sliced
  • 4 carrots, halved lengthways and sliced
  • 400g tin mixed beans, drained and rinsed
  • 1 l chicken stock, fresh, cube or concentrate
  • 2 tbsp tomato purée
  • 50g small pasta shapes
  • a handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • grated parmesan, to serve
  1. Fry the bacon in a large non-stick pan (it will cook in its own fat) until golden, then add the leeks and carrots and cook for about 5 minutes until softened.
  2. Tip in the beans, chicken stock, tomato purée and pasta and simmer until the pasta is cooked.
  3. Stir through the parsley and serve in bowls topped with grated Parmesan.

Looking for more cold weather soup recipes?  Try these:
Corn Chowder
Potimarron Soup
Gumbo
Big Beans and Bitter Greens (Croque-Camille)
Hearty Lentil Soup with Carrots, Tomatoes and Smoked Sausage (Farmgirl Fare)
Split Pea Soup with Caramelized Onions, Hazelnut Oil & Roquefort Breadsticks (Cowgirl Chef)

Not So Subtle Differences Between America and France

If there's one thing that three and a half weeks in America taught me, it's that my way of looking at things has become much more "French" than I realized. I'm not sure when this all happened, but I noticed it the minute my plane touched down in New Orleans.

Here are a few of the not so subtle differences that I observed during my stay.

First, there's the smile.
Wow! I guess I've always been aware of how often Americans smile, but it had somehow slipped my mind. I mean, everyone smiles. At seemingly everything. (my native New Yorker husband says this isn't so in the City - I bow to his wisdom)
Not that it is bad to smile...I don't mean that at all. I'm just not used to strolling down the street, or walking into a shop or a café, and having people flash their pearly whites at me anymore. It doesn't mean that the French aren't lovely, kind, warm people - most of them are - it's just that facial expressions are more reserved here.

Another thing, the chattiness.
When you buy groceries or go shopping in the States, the salesperson often acts as if they are your best friend.
Hi! How are you today? Don't you just love this? That is the cutest purse!
Isn't it cold out there today? What are you going to cook with this? I love your hair, who cuts it? Are you doing anything special tonight? Oh, that is such a pretty color! Where did you get those earrings? Quick - give me a synopsis of your entire life while I ring up your purchases!
It's all so familiar. I don't know these people from Adam, and I find their probing questions far too personal.

Then there is the attentiveness.
I know that servers in American restaurants survive on tips, but stopping by to check on our drinks and food every 5-7 minutes? What the heck?
Every meal I had out with friends or family was interrupted dozens of times by servers stopping by to see "how we were doing." I had to resist the urge to tell them that I would "do just fine" if they would just leave us alone!

Instead I smiled warmly, answered personal questions from complete strangers and tipped generously. I was in America after all. And as they say, When in Rome...


Photo du Jour


The personalized cheese wrapping paper from my favorite Fromager in Béziers. Great little map of French cheese!

(enlarge the photo to read all the names)

La Fête du Fromage - November Round Up

November brought a trio of delicious cheeses from around the world for La Fête du Fromage International Cheese Tasting Event.


An aged, unpasteurized goat’s milk cheese produced at the Bonnie Blue Farm in Waynesboro, Tennessee is Danielle's entry for this month's Fête. Head on over to her blog, Savor Culture, where you can read all about Tanasi Tomme which she describes it as having a firm texture, mild and "...non-threatening to goat neophytes."
Danielle also shares recipes and describes her adventures in home cheese making. I must try her ricotta!

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Ah Gorgonzola! Magnificent Gorgonzola.
Nathalie of Spaced Out Ramblings indulges herself and our senses by sharing two versions of this famous Italian blue cheese - Dolce and Piquante (pictured below) - which have been produced since the year 879 and are currently stamped with the prestigious DOC label.
Nathalie had a bit of a challenge trying to keep her cat away from the cheese long enough to photograph and taste - and cook up some scrumptious Gorgonzola stuffed mushrooms.


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It's Languedoc-Roussillon month at Croque-Camille and Camille was fortunate enough to find a Fromagerie in Paris who sold this distinctive Languedoc cheese, Cathare.
I've tasted this one and think her description is spot on! "...smooth and gooey, while the inside is just a bit firmer and drier. The cheese definitely has that goaty tang with a hint of chalkiness, but the flavor is full and rich."
It's great to know that these local cheeses are available in Paris and I look forward to reading about any other Languedoc specialties that Camille shares this month.


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My entry for La Fête is another delicious French cheese - a succulent, runny fromage de brebis.
I tasted Le Lacandou last summer and was reminded of it last week when I drove by Sévérac-le-Château on my way home from visiting Betty in Aveyron.
This is a young cheese with a delightful grassy and fruity flavor. It comes highly recommended!


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A most sincere thank you to all of you who continue to share your cheese tastings with us. Every month I look forward to seeing what my cheese loving friends around the world have to offer!


December brings us to the 12th Fête du Fromage International Cheese Tasting Event.
If you would like to join in, and I hope you do, please have your entries to me by December 13. The entire round-up will be posted on December 15.

Tell us why you chose this particular cheese. Tell us how it tasted. Tell us about its texture and aroma. Did you eat it on its own? Or with something? Did you drink anything special with your cheese? Would you recommend it or not? Is there something unusual or interesting about it?
  • Photos are wonderful, but not necessary
  • Entries must contain the words La Fête du Fromage and contain a link to Chez Loulou
  • Posts should be written specifically for La Fête du Fromage and not entered in any other food blog event
  • Please send the link to your post to louloufrance (at) gmail (dot) com with the words Fête du Fromage in the subject line

Photo du Jour - Immaculate

Winter Vineyards

A freshly pruned and very tidy vineyard above our village.

One of the things I miss most this time of year is the color green. Winter in a Mediterranean climate zone can be a bit stark. And cold!

Flirting With Maurice

Uh oh.
I'm becoming attached.

I swear these slimy little creatures have personalities. When they stretch their bodies toward you and rotate those funny antennae around, it's like they are flirting!


Meet Maurice. Yes, I've started naming them.


Maurice and Co. are currently grazing on parsley and thyme and have plenty of water to keep them happy.


I'm starting to wonder if I'll have the heart to cook them next weekend.

Photo du Jour - Worker Bee


For the last week the air around these flowers has been abuzz with honeybee activity.

Bidding Adieu...

Upon learning of the sudden demise of Gourmet magazine the other day I sat down in front of my cookbook/cooking magazine bookshelves to take a little trip down memory lane with the issues of the magazine that I've collected over the years.

On the shelves, surrounded by over a dozen copies each of Food & Wine, Saveur (both English and French versions), Bon Appetit and Cuisine et Vins de France, were a measly four copies of Gourmet.

Four
.

I was sure that in the last eight or so years I had compiled a larger number than that. Nope.


It made me realize that as sad as I am for the loss of a 68 year old institution and for the cooks, writers, photographers, etc. who lost their jobs so suddenly, I never really had an enduring love affair with Gourmet.
So I bid you adieu.

And in your memory I vow that I will never buy a copy of Everyday With Rachel Ray or Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade. But I can't promise I won't check out Cooking With Paula Deen, because she's just so bad, she's good.

Pigeon update & Photo frenzy (LOL)

Sailing down the Seine.






I am soooo bored ... is this Paris???

Wait, wait, cannot get you in the frame...

















Allow me to make a little fun of the frantic photographers with whom Nora and I shared our Seine cruise ...

There were several groups of Chinese from the Mainland on the cruise boats, and they took so many pictures that I think they wore out the views!

We're not sure they saw anything actually, as the only activity on the boat was taking pictures and stretching and bending, as if they were doing Tai Qi Chuan and taking pictures as the same time!! LOL

The Cost of Living in France

The other night a friend asked us exactly how many euros he would need each month to to be comfortable living in France.
As I started to answer the question, I realized that there was no way I could.
It is far too subjective.

First of all, what is comfortable?

Did he plan on flying off to Rome, Copenhagen, Lisbon or wherever on a whim?
Would he take frequent trips to Paris?
Would he be happy drinking local wine or did he prefer more expensive Bordeaux or Burgundy?
What kind of car would he drive?
How big of a house did he want to live in?
Would he mainly eat in restaurants or cook at home?

Everyone has a different idea of "comfort".
I could only tell him how we live and how much we currently live on to give him a point of reference.

Here is our situation;
Each month we receive a moderate pension in US dollars and whatever I earn from advertisers here on Chez Loulou and other writing jobs. That comes out to, on average, $1,650 a month. Convert to euros and today that is roughly €1,120. Better than the last few months, when it was around €980!
When we moved to France 5½ years ago we never imagined that the euro would become so strong and that we would be losing a large chunk of our income every month. Every year we've had to cut back more and more to adjust.

Obviously we aren't flying off to Rome on a whim or eating in Michelin starred restaurants. Someday we will...

Yet, we're still comfortable. In a very simple way.

We're surrounded by delicious local food, cheese and AOC wine. I have the time to cook our meals from scratch so we rarely buy pre-made meals. We eat a lot of vegetables and eat meat occasionally. We wait for my yearly trips back to the States (which have been generously paid for by friends and family the last few years) to buy clothes and shoes, as they are much cheaper there. And we have lunch out in a moderately priced restaurant about once every 2-3 months.

Here's how it breaks down each month - remember that we live in a village in the south, not in a big city, so the prices might be totally different to those living in big cities like Paris or Lyon or Marseille.
We own our house outright so we have no mortgage. Also, we have no car payments and no credit card debt.

EDF (electricity) €90
Phone and Internet €50
Heath Insurance (to cover the 30% that isn't covered by the state) €120
Car and Home Insurances €6o
Taxes (habitation and foncières and TV) €40
Water €20
Fuel (to fill up the car twice) €120
Groceries (approx.) €300

Total €800

Which leaves us with around €320 a month for things we need around the house, a cheap ticket to Paris to visit friends, car maintenance, fuel and tolls on the autoroute to get to Camp Cassoulet, a bit for a day trip to Spain, etc.
As my husband often says, we're doing it with mirrors.


It turns out that our situation is not our friend's definition of comfortable!
Go figure.

May 2010 - Cost of Living Update

Photo du Jour


Hot salametto from P.B. Molinari & Sons. The flavor was surprisingly and pleasantly similar to the sopressata that my grandfather used to make.

Celebration and rillettes




When you visit the Sarthe (130 miles west of Paris, the well know 24 Hours of Le Mans car race takes place here), you cannot not try a "pot the rillettes", a pork speciality served in little ramekins and bread. They are rich indeed, but so tasty, and you do not have to eat the whole ramekin! They are made with pork meat and pork meat and pork fat, plus some "in house ingredients" that make them so tasty!
Monsieur Lehoux, from Saint Vincent du Louerer, uses only farm pork from the area, and that is how he has won a Gold Medal of rillettes!

Photo du Jour

Un petit escargot.

Turkey in Paris: Rose Lukum

What a delight! Turkish lukums scented with rose extract was what I had with a Turkish coffee today.
Lukum is a Turkish delicacy that is found in many countries around the Mediterranean and beyond: Turkey, Greece, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Bosnia, Albania, Romania, and also Tunisia and Morocco. The name Lukum comes probably from the Turkish word lokum, and the latter may come from the arab word rahat-ul holkum or from the greek version of the arab name, loukoumia. It is made with starch and sugar (lots of sugar!) and the traditional flavor is rose, but other flavors are also available, sometimes with pices of pistacchio or other nuts inside. They are served with lots of powder sugar.

I made Turkish coffee in the coffee brass pot (I have three, for 2, 4, and 6 cups) I brought from Beghdad, where I learend to make this thick coffee. I always open a few cardamon pods and put the seeds in the pot when I am boiling teh water. It gives coffee a delicious flavor. I had it without sugar - lukums had plenty!

Mardi Gras Kaleidoscope

As I get myself organized for an early flight tomorrow, I thought I would leave you with a few photos from Mardi Gras.

In case you don't recognize her, that last one is none other than the amazing diva herself, Dolly Parton!