The Sarthe and the Rillettes



Some time ago I did a post about the Sarthe, a vast area 160 miles west of Paris, famous for its 24 hours car race (24 heures du Mans) and the Rillettes.
We are spending a weekend at Saint Vincent du Louerer where Mr LeHoux, master of the Rillette charcuterie, has won (yet again!) a medal in a regional Rillette Contest. Rillettes is a spread of pork meat/fat, diced and cooked for hours in iron pans (see picture) and seasoned with art! It is served cold as an apetizer. (see http://aworldinapan.blogspot.com/2007/08/celebration-and-rillettes.html)
Nowadays, rillettes are made of duck, goose, chicken ... but the original recipe is with porc meat.

Photo du Jour


Spent two hours on Sunday making fried chicken for the first time. The legs were perfect - crispy and juicy - but the thighs came out slightly undercooked.
zut

We all have our learning curves.

A BO-BO menu!















Last night we had a Blue Cheese Quiche and a salad. A World in a PAN Home Chef Brigitte Labadie would say this is a ty pical BoBO menu.
Bo-Bo, which stands for Bourgeois and Boheme, is a Parisian sociological trend: young professional couples, many working in the artistic fields, chose to live in working class districts (such as the 11th, the 10th), or the subrubs thus changing the complete aspect and atmosphere of these areas.
A World in a PAN offers a tour to help you discover this lifestyle http://www.aworldinapan.com/classes_and_fees.php#5
So back to my menu! Last night we had a blue cheese quiche and a salad. You can see the picture here and the recipe in my website.
Weather in Paris was summer weather, at last! and we enjoyed a glass of cool Saint Nicolas de Bourgueuil (red) with our delicious meal.

Enjoy!

Restaurant le 26

A visit to Vosne Romanee with your senses




Peter challenged my palate yet once more time with another incredible treat!
After the Batard Montrachet 1991, and the Saint Julien 1984, he opened a Vosne Romanee Grand Cru, a Richebourg 1981 ($$$$$). Noellat is a wine producer at Vosne Romanee, which is located in Burgandy, in the Cotes de Nuit region (there are two areas, Cote de Nuit and Cotes de Beaune). Vosne Romanee has only 140 acres of vineyards under the appellation Grand Cru (great wine).
Speechless!

La Tapisserie de Bayeux, Normandy (1)

I apologize for the bad quality of the pictures in this post. I have broken my camera and while I wait to receive the new one, I am using my Nokia cell phone!Bayeux is a delightful town in the Calvados region (yes, where Calvados, this apple brandy is made) famous for its tapestry, and with a magnificent gothic cathedral and a peacful atmosphere.

Bayeux' tapestry is not an actual one but an embroidered linen cloth of 50 cm by 70 m (20 in by 230 ft) which depicits the events leading up to the conquest of the throne of England by the Normands. It was done in 1066 and it is really worth the visit!
We had driven across the city many times on our way to Basse Normandie; when Kathy and Dave visited last fall we stopped by.. but it was closed - how silly of us, we wanted to visit at lunchtime!
Now it is done and am I ever happy I have found the time to visit! This is a pictured of a styled image of the tapestry.

When we arrived, it was lunchitme again, this time we were wiser and we checked our Guide Michelin for a very affordable restaurant. We chose to have lunch at the Bistrot de Paris at 3, rue du Docteur Guillet.
I must say that the Tapestry Museum closes during lunchtime only in winter.
I chose a simple menu at less than 15 Euros.
The chef has indeed imagination! The names are incredibly complicated - for simple dishes. But it seems it is a fashion in cuisine now!
My apetizer was a "millefeuille" of tomato and goat chese, nice and fresh - though the side salad had too much dressing for me!
The main course presented three types of fish steamed with vegetables and served in a dim sum basket. Creative. The dish was hot, had a branch of lemongrass (after all the long name that I have now forgotten had lemongrass in it), and a light sauce for the fish.
After the main course, I had an espresso, which came with a home made financier, a delicate cookie made with ground almonds instead of flour.






While in Bayeux, we stayed at a Bed & Breakfast which is steps away form the Cathedral and Tapestry Museum and that I recommend. The name is Les Glycines, and it is located at 13 rue aux Coqs. There are only three rooms, so you better call Annick or Louis Fauvel before you go (02 31 22 52 32).

Eating Dutch (in Amsterdam).

If you want to try the local specialisties, do not forget to start the day with herrings! They are served with chopped onions on top and sweet & sour pickled cornichon. If fish does not tempt you, you can opt for one of these warm sausauges served on a bed of kiel and mashed potatoes.
Vegetarians can have a pannekoek with kaas. Pannekoeken are like French crepes, except that they are much thicker and the flavors are cooked with the dough. Mine was with cheese, but they also make them with bacon or onions .. you name it.
Whatever the hour of the day, you can try kaas ... the owner of the cheese shop or Kaas Specialist near the palce where I stay when I asked when the Dutch had cheese, said "anytime ... all the time"! They have it for breakfast with bread, but they also add it to many quick dishes, like this "fried egg with tomatoes" I tried a few days ago which had melted kaas on top.
If you have a sweet tooth, for an afternoon snack you can try the local waffles with its delicious cinnamon flavord syrup inside.
Dutch waffles are thinner than theBelgium ones I had another time I came to Amsterdam, and round. You better hold it flat, or the syrup will do a mess of your hands!
There you go!

Académie culinaire de France

The elite of the culinary world is present at the Culinary Academy of France. Created in 1883 by Joseph Favre (1849-1903), the Culinary Academy of France is the oldest association of Chefs de Cuisine and Pastry in the world. It supports all those who by their actions, do project French cuisine while respecting its traditions and its evolution. She organizes and participates in competitions, exhibitions, conferences in France and abroad.
In 1877, Joseph Favre surprised that the kitchen or food does not have an academy, so that medicine, science, arts and health have theirs. But also that the pharmacy has his code and geography dictionary.
The first need of the animal was feeding, it is remarkable that the man is the only animal to cook their food.
It is with these thoughts that Joseph Favre works both in the creation of a group of writers who cooks take the name of Academy and the writing of his future dictionary.
Today, members of the Academy are the number 900, representing 27 nations and are present on five continents. Gerard Jones is the president since 1996.

History
On September 15, 1877, Joseph Favre founded the first newspaper written by a culinary chef. It is entitled "The Science Culinary. It is printed in Geneva. He lived seven years under his leadership.
The newspaper produced such emulation in the culinary world on 1 March 1879, Joseph Favre established the Universal Union for the Progress of Culinary Arts. 80 branches are formed in the world. That of Paris took the name of "Culinary Academy" May 26, 1883.
Joseph Favre will be the Secretary General and November 15, 1883, he resigned in a letter that ends this way: Remember you attract more enemies by doing good to the ungrateful humanity in him hurting, its natural tendency is perversion, but do not forget that we bear with a sweet satisfaction when slander is only good. With a sense of generosity, you need to arm yourself to convince your colleagues and bring them to a more just and healthy cause we defend.
On November 20, 1882, "Culinary Science" is published in Paris, following the success of the exhibition kitchen organized and chaired by Joseph Favre, opening the series of culinary competitions that will succeed.
On 20 November of that year Favre is sponsored by Drs Bremond and Pietra Santa to the French Society of Hygiene. In February 1883, special meeting in full Joseph Favre gets his chest with this tribute: Wishing to testify in public recognition of talent and profound genius made to emancipate the French cuisine, this memory will remain bright testimony to the esteem and interest shown by his colleagues in this great reform which he was the father. His bust will be left by his son Henry at the Culinary Academy of France February 6, 1954.
In 1888, the Academy was reorganized and the name will definitely Académie Culinaire de France. The final articles are deposited in the prefecture of Paris. Its Chairman is Casimir Moisson and the Secretary General Joseph Favre assisted by Emile Auguste Darene and Colombia.
1894 first edition of the Dictionary of Universal Practical Kitchen. Nobody should be surprised today to see the dictionary of Joseph Favre in a consumer publishing.
The wish of the author was not he offer his knowledge of food to the family she is upper class or more modest?
In his letter to the reader, does not he say: "the mother or the housewife can now study the important issues of food hygiene and to follow an appropriate diet for children at different stages of their young ages?
Joseph Favre was a progressive. He meets Jules Guesde, Elysee Reclus, Arthur Arnold. Thus we can better understand his commitment to child health, family. In his work, he does not overshadow the plans, the healing properties of plants and is convinced that healthy food is better than a prescription. He said the best doctor of man is his food which will oppose to many traditional doctors.
In gastronomy, "said Joseph Favre: There is a gulf between the greed of the Romans requiring emetic to enjoy a new greedy swallowing the food to the consequences of indigestion, disorders and gout, and culinary science has for the real purpose of health research through the kitchen that keeps the virility, the development of productive forces remains vital and intellectual faculties in their integrity.
These words clearly show that the excess sometimes food: too rich food, tobacco, alcohol, aggressive table conversations, etc.. merely destroy health. While a healthy food with healthy food can only bring longevity and well being in a friendly and happy family harmony.
On the death of Joseph Favre in 1903, Emile Daren, author of the History of the food and beverage, cook, pastry chef and journalist, and Augustus British author of the New Culinary Encyclopedia in three volumes, taking the secretariat Academy and perpetuate the work of Joseph Favre through the writings. The 1914-1918 war occurs and in a Europe in crisis, the Academy lost its influence.
Between the wars, the Culinary Academy takes a turn and becomes more like a club Gastronome.
A gourmet is a man or a woman with a culture about food, wine, culinary arts, history, food, fishing, hunting, agriculture and loving healthy food, quality and balanced. He can also enjoy all the arts.
In 1951, the Culinary Academy takes force with MM. Delande Augustus Ferdinand Wernert, Alfred Guerot. Thus reconstituted, it resumed its activities. In 1956 she created her delegation to the United States of America then in Japan and Canada. The Presidents Menessier Maurice Jules Petit, Pierre Mangelatte solidify the base, then President Michel Malapris opens delegations Benelux, Great Britain, Australia and Mexico.
In 1964, she founded the National Trophy of Cuisine and Pastry; Award whose winners will be Mr. Paul-Louis Meissonier, Joel Robuchon, Guy Legay, Jean Jacques Barber, Roland Durand, André Le Gall, Jean-Pierre Biffi, etc.. and in 2001 she created the International Trophy of Cuisine and Pastry.
The biggest names in food science: Mr. Jacques Revel, Jacques Puisais, Jean-Marie Bourre, members of the Academy of Medicine, Hervé This, Pierre Gagnaire, etc.. participate in conferences at the Académie Culinaire de France.
Mr Alain Senderens Yves Toulousy and Maurice Guilmault comment on their relationship with the work of Joseph Favre in a booklet published in 2003: Since its inception, it has given the right to defend the authenticity of the names and denounce any culinary deception to promote the world of French cuisine through her recipes, techniques and enforce good quality and good name of food.

Photo du Jour - Blown Away


The soft, unseasonable autumn weather we've been having means that the leaves have been hanging on for a bit longer than usual.
Some strong winds blew last night and sadly blew most of them away.

Luckily I snapped this photo (and many others of the vineyards) before that happened.

Mazar Restaurant

Inside Mazar Restaurant
Cozy Corner of Mazar Restaurant

A Casaluna Restaurant

Front Door

The French, style, entertaining, and my friend Elizabeth

I have already featured in this blog a dinner over at my friend's Elizabeth. She has so much style that I cannot help sharing again with you a dinner at her place. Of course everytime the guests wonder why I am taking pictures, and I say I have a food blog, but I sense I am miles away from their reality! I do not mind because I know you're going to enjoy my post!
Elizabeth is (fully) responsible for me becoming a fan of Jacquard-Francais table cloths. Unfortunately their website is not great; the table ware is much, much better than it shows in the pictures in the website.
I love Elizabeth's red one and the sumptuous matching napkins. Red breathes luxury on a table!
She had decorated the table with rose petals - instead of the traditional vase in the center of the table. This allowed room for what was coming as the main course, a delicious "paella". The little silver teapots that you see have a candle inside, very cute indeed!
Before the meal Elizabeth served Champagne or Kir Royal with "verrines" . You can learn about Kir by clicking on the word, it will take you to my website and the explanation.
Hers were made with a layer of guacamole, a layer of cream cheese, and a layer of home made tomato sauce. They were presented in a Japanese rectangular blue and white dish.
Then we moved to the dinning room. Her silver ware is beautiful and comes from her family, as do the Limoges porcelain dishes. Look how beautiful silver is on red! And the menu? We had a delicious Cavaillon melon and Parma ham as an appetizer, and then a rich paella, which Elizabeth learned to master during the 14 years she lived in Spain.
She served it with a wine from La Rioja.
We had strawberries and raspberries for dessert. Perfect!

A stop at Yamazaki pastry shop.

A pleasant Parisian stroll on a Sunday afternoon ... I went all the way to Chaussee de la Muette (metro Muette, line 9) in the 16th district, where I live, and once there, to one of my "must go" spots, the pastry shop Yamazaki which features a blend of French and Japanese pastry.
My very favorite order in summer is one of their "Granites", snow like mounds served in an icecream bowl, with a light syrup of your choice - I often order "green tea" which you can have with ou without anko (I always order mine with anko).
The impossible game is to eat it trying not to stain the table! Quite a challenge, believe me - and a difficult training in good manners!

UPDATE JULY 21: Thank you RoyalTLady for your comment. I had forgotten that Yamazaki also offers Condensed milk as an option (actually I never tasted granite with condensed milk but may try it next time).

The house speciality is "choux" or cream puffs, which are worth the stop.
It's a great place to go to if you are on a visit to the peaceful Musee Marmottan , at 2 rue Louis-Boilly, on the Jardins du Ranelagh. You can come here for lunch or for the afternoon tee; they serve light lunches and delicious pastries.

A Cheese Odyssey



Two years ago I impulsively decided to take on the whopping task of tasting each and every cheese produced in France. Today, April 18, is the two year anniversary of la Fête du Fromage.
I think that calls for a celebration!

Each and every cheese
...just how many is that exactly? Apparently there is no definitive answer. Some say as few as 350 and other sources cite as many as 1000. The most common answer is that there are around 400-500 French cheeses.

In the last two years I have tasted about 130 of the 350-1000. That means I've got another 3 to 10 years of delicious French cheese tasting to look forward to. Here's to that!


A few highlights from the last 2 years:

Tomette des Corbières,
Langres
Le Napoléon Commingeois
Tomme de Maquis
la Taupinière
Cabretou
La Courounne Lochoise
Gaperon

.

La Fête du Fromage - le Cados

The jury's still out on this one.

I take a bite and it is pretty tasty. Then I start chewing and absorb the full, heady, boozy flavor, and it practically knocks me on my ass.

Le Cados.

Another cheese by Carole Brihier of La Société Fromages Service in Campigneulles-les-Grandes, in the Pas-de-Calais département. She's the genius behind le Cameau, a cheese we tasted a few weeks ago.


Calvados soaked breadcrumbs surrounding rich Camembert


My husband and I both tasted it. Both of us were undecided. Was it good? Did we like it? It was highly unusual for both of us to be this ambivalent. We aren't shy about expressing our opinions around here!
So we recruited six friends to be guinea pigs and give us their opinion as well.

"Too strong."
"Would taste delicious with apple or pear slices to cut the strong flavor."
"Strong and unusual. It's...interesting."
"Wow. Really rich and has a strong alcohol flavor."


Do I sense a pattern here?

Le Cados' strength is exactly why neither my husband nor I were sure about it. Not that I don't like strong cheese. Au contraire. I love it.
But this Calvados soaked, raw milk Camembert is exceptionally potent and intense.

So, as half of it sits in my fridge, uneaten and mocking me every time I open the door and look in there, I have to state my honest opinion and say that it is highly doubtful that we'll finish it.

I wanted to like le Cados, I really did.
However, I won't be pursuing this one again any time soon.

Photo du Jour - Spring is in the Air


Les primevères- primroses.
Early signs of spring are everywhere!

Flavors I Love

Crisp, fizzy Champagne. Sometimes with a splash of something sweet


Crispy-crunchy with coarse salt


Earthy morel mushrooms with perfectly cooked, creamy risotto


A peppery bite with summer-ripe tomatoes and crumbly Parmigiano


Warm, tangy chèvre and sweet caramelized onion jam


Creamy vanilla with a crunchy, sugar top


Sweet and tart

Soft, dark chocolate and chewy. Preferably with pecans